Mt Manaslu Expedition

Conquering the Spirit of the Mountains: The Mt Manaslu Expedition

Duration Duration 41 Days
Meals Meals
  • 40 Breakfast
  • 36 Lunch
  • 37 Dinner
Accommodation Accommodation
  • Hotel
  • Lodge
  • Tents
Activites Activities
  • Expedition
  • Trekking
  • Sightseeing
Price Reduced US$ 24500 Price Starts From US$ 19500 Book Now
Destination Destination
Nepal
Difficulty Difficulty
Tough
Max. Altitude Max. Altitude
8,163 Meter/26,781ft
Activities Activity
Expedition
Start and Point Start/End Point
Kathmandu
Best Season Best Season
April
Group Size Group Size
Minimum 2
Transportation Transportation
Private car and Tourist Bus
Activity Per Day Activity Per Day
8-9 Hours

Overview of Mt Manaslu Expedition

The Mt Manaslu Expedition is a thrilling adventure to the world’s eighth-highest peak. Mt Manaslu, towering at 8,163 meters (26,781 feet) in Nepal’s Mansiri Himal range, is an ideal challenge for climbers aiming to conquer Everest. This expedition attracts those seeking a less crowded yet physically demanding climb. Climbers need excellent fitness, technical skills, and high-altitude experience to succeed.

On this expedition, climbers usually take the Northeast face route, beginning at a base camp 4,850 meters above sea level. The journey, lasting four to six weeks, allows climbers to adjust to the high altitude. They face a variety of terrains, such as glacier crevasses, steep snow slopes, and sometimes rocky areas.


Trip Highlights

  • Reaching the Eighth Highest Summit: Climbers achieve the notable feat of summiting Mt. Manaslu, the world’s eighth tallest mountain at 8,163 meters (26,781 feet).
  • Breathtaking Views of the Himalayas: The climb offers stunning panoramas of the Himalayan range, including sweeping views from the summit.
  • Diverse Climbing Terrain: The ascent involves a variety of terrains, including crossing glaciers, navigating steep snow, and tackling rocky areas, offering a whole mountaineering experience.
  • Cultural Immersion: Trekking through remote Nepalese villages provides rich cultural encounters and insights into the local lifestyles.
  • Quiet, Uncrowded Paths: Manaslu provides a more peaceful climb with fewer climbers than busier mountains like Everest.
  • Acclimatizing at High Altitudes: The expedition is an excellent chance for climbers to adapt to high altitudes, a crucial part of high-mountain climbing.
  • Historical Significance: Climbers connect with the mountain’s history, especially the first successful climb by Toshio Imanishi and Gyalzen Norbu in 1956, highlighting its importance in the Japanese-Nepalese mountaineering legacy.

The most challenging part is crossing the ‘icefall,’ a complex area of ice towers and crevasses, requiring careful movement and skill. Climbers set up camps at various heights, including Camps I, II, III, and IV. Camp IV is the last stop before the final climb to the summit.

The last ascent up Mt Manaslu puts climbers’ endurance, ability, and resolve to the test. They often start early in the morning, aiming to reach the top and descend to a lower camp the same day. Reaching the summit offers a spectacular view of the Himalayas, a rewarding moment for climbers.

Safety is crucial, and the decision to attempt the summit depends on the weather and the climbers’ health. Teams rely on high-altitude porters, known as Sherpas, and specialized gear to face the mountain’s challenges. The Mt Manaslu Expedition, known for its harsh conditions and stunning scenery, is a dream adventure for many climbers.

History and Significance of the Mount Manaslu Expedition

Various pioneering climbs and notable achievements mark the history of the Mt Manaslu Expedition. In 1956, Toshio Imanishi and Gyaltsen Norbu achieved the first ascent of Manaslu, opening the doors to future expeditions.

The 1970s witnessed both successes and tragedies, including the first British ascent in 1983 and the inaugural winter ascent in 1984 by Polish climbers. Climbers like Anatoli Boukreev and Carlos Carsolio reached the summit in the 1990s, and Charlie Mace became the first American to do so.

The 2000s saw numerous expeditions from different countries, and in 2011, Arjun Vajpai became the youngest climber to summit Manaslu. Unfortunately, there were also unfortunate incidents, such as avalanches and fatalities. In 2020, Sheikha Asma Al Thani made history as the first Arab to summit without oxygen.

In a remarkable achievement, Spanish alpinist Alex Txikon and his team completed a winter ascent of Mt. Manaslu in 2023, a feat not accomplished in over two decades, showcasing the remarkable history of the Mt Manaslu Expedition.

Mt Manaslu Expedition Detail Itinerary

  • Day 1: Arrival in Kathmandu

    When you arrive in Kathmandu, Nepal’s bustling capital, you’ll land at Tribhuvan International Airport. This city, at 1,350 meters (4,429 feet) above sea level, is central to Nepal’s politics, culture, and mountaineering activities.

    After getting to Kathmandu, a vehicle will take you to your hotel. Here, you can relax and adapt to the local climate and time zone.

    You’ll meet the people joining you on your expedition for the first time at your hotel. This meeting is where you get to know your guides and the other climbers. It helps build team spirit, which is essential for a successful climb.

    In this meeting, the team leader will discuss the expedition plan, cover safety rules, and answer any questions about the trip.

    Accommodation: The Everest Hotel
    Meals: Not Included

  • Day 2: Preparation for Trekking in Kathmandu

    In Kathmandu, you’ll go to a meeting where they’ll tell you everything about the Mt Manaslu Expedition. This meeting is essential because it covers your path, safety, and how to care for the environment.

    The person leading the expedition and the guides, who know a lot, will talk about what to expect daily, how the weather might be, and how to get used to the high altitude.

    They will also teach you how to use your climbing gear right and explain why working as a team and talking well with each other is critical.

    After this meeting, you will have time to make sure all your climbing stuff and the equipment for the whole group are ready to go.

    It is important to make sure everything is in working order and to wear appropriate clothing, climbing boots, and safety gear.

    If there’s still time left in the day, you can see some incredible places in Kathmandu. The city has old temples, busy markets, and buildings that look different, all showing Nepal’s rich culture and history.

    Accommodation: The Everest Hotel
    Meals: Breakfast

  • Day 3: Drive from Kathmandu (1,350m) to Besishahar (760m) - 6-7 hours drive

    You’ll start a beautiful drive from Kathmandu to Besishahar in the early morning. This drive shows you Nepal’s beautiful scenery, like hills and rivers.

    You will see small villages and farms along the way, giving you a glimpse of what life is like in the Nepalese countryside.

    When you get to Besishahar, you will be in a busy town that’s the starting point for many hikes. Many trekkers and local people are around, making it a lively place.

    Besishahar is excellent for getting a feel of local life and getting ready in your mind for the trek. You’ll spend the night here, which gives you time to rest and prepare for the next part of your trip that takes you towards the amazing Mt Manaslu.

    Accommodation: Local Lodge
    Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

  • Day 4: Drive from Besishahar (760m) to Dharapani (1,960m) - 4-5 hours drive

    You’ll keep going on a mountain road that’s pretty tough to drive on, heading towards Dharapani. This road goes through rough, hilly areas, making for a real adventure and a shaky ride.

    As you go higher up the mountains, you’ll see the fantastic views that make Nepal’s highlands unique. The scenery changes as you climb higher, from lots of trees and green stuff to less and less vegetation.

    When you get to Dharapani, you’re at an important spot for people trekking in the Annapurna and Manaslu areas.

    In Dharapani, you’ll get all your walking gear ready, ensure you’re okay with the high-up air, and prepare your mind for the trekking part of your adventure.

    Accommodation: Local Lodge
    Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

  • Day 5: Trek from Dharapani (1,960m) to Tilje (2,300m) - 5-6 hours trek

    You’ll start your trek walking through magical forests and small Nepalese villages. The beauty of nature will be all around you, with animal sounds and lots of green trees and plants.

    The path goes through these calm places, and you can get into the peaceful feeling and learn about the local people’s lives.

    You’re heading to Tilje, a village known for being different and friendly. When you get to Tilje, about 2,300 meters (7,545 feet) high up, you’ll take a break and get used to the thinner air.

    The village is an excellent place for people trekking to stop. Being in Tilje is an excellent way to let your body adjust to being higher up in the mountains.

    Accommodation: Local Lodge
    Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

  • Day 6: Trek from Tilje (2,300m) to Bhimtang (3,590m) - 6-7 hours trek

    As you keep trekking, you’ll walk through many different places. Each is beautiful and gives you new things to see and challenges to face. You’ll go up and down gentle hills, cross little streams, and pass through broad open valleys.

    Everywhere you look, you will see amazing views of big mountains. The path changes a lot, from thick woods to rocky trails.

    You’re heading to Bhimtang for the night, a calm and pretty spot surrounded by high mountains. Bhimtang is about 3,720 meters (12,204 feet) and is famous for its incredible views and quiet, peaceful feeling.

    In Bhimtang, you’ll stay overnight, relax in this quiet place, and prepare for the next part of your walk. It is a great place to chill out and think about your trek so far, all while being around some of the prettiest views in the Himalayas.

    Accommodation: Local Lodge
    Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

  • Day 7: Rest and Acclimatization Day in Bhimtang (3,590m)

    You have a whole day just for resting and getting used to the high altitude, which is essential when trekking up high.

    This day is about letting your body adjust to being up higher where there’s less oxygen. It helps stop altitude sickness.

    Walking around is good for staying lightly active, which helps with getting used to the altitude. You can enjoy the peaceful place, look at all the incredible scenery, and get your head ready for the next part of your trek.

    Accommodation: Local Lodge
    Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

  • Day 8: Trek to Larkya La Pass (5,106m) and Continue to Samdo (3,860m) - 8-9 hours trek

    You’ll start your trek early in the morning to cross the Larkya La pass, an exciting and essential part of your trip. Larkya La is high up, and it’s a bit tough to cross, but it’s also a significant part of the trek.

    As you go up the pass, you’ll see incredible views and feel the adventure of going over a big part of the Himalayas. Once you’ve made the Larkya La pass, you’ll walk down to Samdo.

    This small village is known for being out of the way and pretty, with mountains around it. The walk down to Samdo is just as incredible as going up, but it shows you a different side of the mountains.

    When you get to Samdo, it’s a calm place, perfect for resting after a big day of trekking. This charming and peaceful village makes it a great place to end a day full of excitement.

    Accommodation: Local Lodge
    Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

  • Day 9: Trek from Samdo (3,860m) to Sama Gaon (3,530m) - 3-4 hours trek

    As you walk from Samdo, fantastic mountain views will surround you. The trek is unique because you can walk under the big, open sky and over rough mountain paths.

    It feels peaceful and makes you feel close to nature. You’re heading to Sama Gaon, a big village famous for its culture.

    When you get close to Sama Gaon, you’ll see that the houses look different, and the whole place feels lively.

    This village is significant for the local culture. Staying in Sama Gaon is a chance to see the area’s natural beauty and rich culture, making it a crucial part of your trek.

    Accommodation: Local Lodge
    Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

  • Day 10: Trek from Sama Gaon (3,530m) to Manaslu Base Camp (4,800m) - 4-5 hours trek

    Today is a big day as you walk towards Manaslu Base Camp, where you’ll start the central part of your climb.

    You will feel excited as you get closer to the base camp. Manaslu, a vast mountain 8,163 meters (26,781 feet) tall, gets more significant and impressive as you approach.

    Getting to the base camp is a big deal –starting the central part of your climb. Upon reaching Manaslu Base Camp, you will pitch your tents in an area with breathtaking views of the surrounding valleys and mountains.

    The base camp will be your home for the next part of the climb. You’ll get ready for the climb, ensure your gear is all good, and talk about how you’ll get to the top with your guides and other climbers.

    The base camp isn’t just where you sleep – it’s where you get all prepared, in your body and mind, for the most significant part of your adventure on Manaslu.

    Accommodation: Tented Camp
    Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, and Dinner

  • Day 11 to Day 32: Climbing Period to Summit Manaslu (8,163m)

    Climbing Manaslu starts at base camp and is both challenging and rewarding. You start climbing with excitement and respect for the big mountain.

    It is about discovering more about yourself and seeing how far you can go. As you go higher, you’ll see amazing views of the Himalayas and feel connected to nature.

    On the way to Manaslu summit
    On the way to the Manaslu summit

    The climb is slow and careful, and you must deal with different kinds of ground, like steep, snowy areas and narrow paths.

    You’ll climb higher by moving through many camps set up at different heights. These camps, like Camp I and Camp II, are significant for getting used to the high air and getting ready for the last part of the climb to the top.

    Each camp has challenges, like harsh weather and beautiful things like amazing sunrises. The way you climb involves going up higher during the day and returning to sleep, which helps you acclimatize better.

    On the way to Manaslu summit
    On the way to the Manaslu summit

    The big moment of the expedition is trying to reach the summit. Climbing to the top of Manaslu is challenging but also exciting. Every step gets you closer to the top of the world.

    The last part of the climb is the hardest. It would be best if you were assertive and determined. When you finally get to the top, it’s a fantastic feeling. You feel proud and amazed by the views of the mountains all around you.

    After reaching the top, you must focus on safely returning to base camp. Going down is careful work because you might be tired or still excited about getting to the top, making it complicated.

    Going down also lets you take in how significant this achievement is and enjoy the beautiful Himalayas one last time before leaving Manaslu’s high parts.

    Accommodation: Tented Camp
    Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, and Dinner

  • Day 33: Preparation to Return

    As you prepare to return to Kathmandu, you take time to think about everything that happened on the climb. While you pack, you remember all the fantastic things you did and saw when climbing Manaslu.

    The strict paths you walked and the beautiful views from the top are things you’ll always remember. You feel proud of what you did and think about everything you learned from this fantastic adventure.

    Accommodation: Tented Camp
    Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, and Dinner

  • Day 34: Trek from Manaslu Base Camp (4,800m) to Sama Gaon (3,530m) - 3-4 hours trek

    After leaving Manaslu Base Camp, you start heading down to Sama Gaon. The path to Sama Gaon is more manageable than going up, so you can enjoy the views and feel good about what you’ve done.

    As you trek down, the Himalayas show you their beauty in a new way, different from what you saw on the way up.

    When you get to Sama Gaon, it feels pleasant and familiar. Returning to the village feels like you’ve completed a big circle in your adventure.

    Sama Gaon is a great place to take a break and overcome the arduous climb.

    Accommodation: Local Lodge
    Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

  • Day 35: Trek from Sama Gaon (3,530m) to Namrung (2,660m) - 6-7 hours trek

    As you keep going down in the Manaslu area, you walk through amazing sceneries full of natural beauty. The trek takes you through different places, like meadows full of wildflowers and valleys with streams.

    Incredible views of the Himalayas everywhere you look make the trek memorable. After a while, you arrive in Namrung, a village known for its old-style buildings.

    The houses in Namrung show off the skill of the local builders with beautifully carved woodwork and stone walls.

    Accommodation: Local Lodge
    Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

  • Day 36: Trek from Namrung (2,660m) to Philim Village (1,570m) - 6-7 hours trek

    Walking from Namrung, you enter beautiful forests and charming rural areas. The journey is peaceful, with lush green trees and a simple way of life around you.

    Then, you reach Philim, a village where mostly Gurung people live. Philim is unique because of its different culture.

    Staying in Philim is a great chance to get to know the Gurung community, which is famous for its rich culture and friendly nature.

    Accommodation: Local Lodge
    Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

  • Day 37: Trek from Namrung (2,660m) to Philim Village (1,570m) - 6-7 hours trek

    As you go down, you head towards Machhakhola, walking along beautiful rivers and through small, charming villages.

    This part of the trek is peaceful, with the gentle sound of the river and the sights of rural Nepal around you.

    Walking through these villages, you see how the local people live, learning about their culture and traditions.

    When you arrive in Machhakhola, you’ll be in a small village for your entire life. Even though it’s not big, the village is welcoming and great for travelers. It’s an excellent place to relax, talk with others, and try some local food.

    Spending the night in Machhakhola is an excellent way to finish a day of trekking. It’s a friendly place to rest well and prepare for what’s next.

    Accommodation: Local Lodge
    Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

  • Day 38: Trek from Machhakhola (930m) to Sotikhola (700m), Drive to Arughat (600m) - 6-7 hours trek, 1-2 hours drive

    On the last day of your trek, you’ll head towards Sotikhola. This final part of the trip makes you think about all the fantastic and challenging things you’ve done.

    Walking to Sotikhola feels good because you’re finishing what you set out to do and looking forward to returning to more usual places.

    Once you get to Sotikhola, you’ll take a drive to Arughat. Your time trekking comes to an utter end at this point.

    The drive is a chance for you to sit back and start getting used to being away from the quiet mountains and back to busier places. In Arughat, you get to rest and be welcomed by the locals.

    Accommodation: Local Lodge
    Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

  • Day 39: Drive from Arughat (600m) to Kathmandu (1,400m) - 7-8 hours drive

    The journey takes you to Kathmandu, where you can reflect on the fantastic adventure you just finished.

    While driving to the lively capital, you’ll have the chance to remember the difficulties you conquered and the stunning landscapes you saw.

    When you reach Kathmandu, you’ll visit your hotel and experience modern comforts. This transition from the challenging Himalayan terrain to the hotel’s relaxation is a well-deserved change.

    Accommodation: The Everest Hotel
    Meals: Breakfast

  • Day 40: Free Day in Kathmandu

    On your leisure day in Kathmandu, you can relax or explore.

    You can visit famous cultural sites like the Swayambhunath Stupa or Kathmandu Durbar Square, shop for souvenirs in bustling markets like Thamel, or enjoy local cuisine at the city’s diverse restaurants.

    Whether you want a peaceful day or an adventurous one, Kathmandu has many experiences to offer on this day in its vibrant and culturally rich surroundings.

    Accommodation: The Everest Hotel
    Meals: Breakfast and Dinner

  • Day 41: Departure from Kathmandu

    Your adventure comes to an end as you’re taken to the airport for your flight home, capping the Mt Manaslu Expedition. This moment holds mixed emotions as you say goodbye to the majestic Himalayas and the friends you’ve made during the adventure.

    The memories of this incredible experience will remain with you, from the challenging climbs to the awe-inspiring views.

    At the airport, you will bid farewell and express gratitude to the expedition team, guides, and the warm-hearted people of Nepal who facilitated this remarkable journey.

    You will carry the experiences and valuable lessons learned during the Mt Manaslu Expedition with you as you head home, cherishing the moments spent in the heart of the Himalayas.

    Meal: Breakfast


Includes/Excludes

What's included

  • Airport transfers to/from the hotel.
  • 4-star Kathmandu hotel (4 nights, breakfast included, double occupancy).
  • Kathmandu-Samagaun round-trip transport.
  • Gear and team transport to/from Base Camp.
  • Manaslu climb, National Park, and TIMS permits.
  • 3 daily meals during the trek and at Base Camp.
  • Farewell dinner in Kathmandu.
  • Two oxygen bottles per member, one per Sherpa.
  • Oxygen mask and regulator for each member and Sherpa.
  • Personal high-altitude Climbing Sherpa support.

What is excluded

  • International airfare to/from Kathmandu
  • Nepalese visa fees
  • Lunch and dinner in Kathmandu
  • Additional accommodation in Kathmandu for early arrival, late departure, or early expedition return
  • Personal travel and high-altitude insurance
  • Personal expenses (e.g., calls, internet, laundry, alcohol, gear shopping)
  • Mandatory Sherpa summit bonus (min. USD 1,200)
  • Tips for base camp staff and porters
  • Personal climbing equipment and clothing
  • Emergency rescue and evacuation costs
  • Items not listed under “Price Includes section”

Accommodation

During the Mt. Manaslu Expedition, the accommodation significantly varies from the urban comfort of Kathmandu to the rugged, remote Manaslu Base Camp. Comfortable, well-appointed hotels in Kathmandu welcome participants, offering amenities like Wi-Fi, hot showers, and Western-style meals for a pleasant stay before and after the expedition.

As the expedition progresses towards Manaslu Base Camp, it transitions to staying in teahouses or lodges located in smaller villages, which provide basic yet comfortable accommodations. These establishments provide shared rooms with beds and communal dining areas.

Upon arrival at Manaslu Base Camp, the expedition sets up tented camps for a safe and secure environment. The team equips these camps with sleeping tents, sleeping mats, and bags alongside a communal tent for dining and socializing, ensuring comfort and warmth at high altitudes.

Meals

The expedition designs meals to meet the high-energy demands of climbers, taking into account local availability and dietary preferences. A variety of Nepali and international cuisines greet climbers in Kathmandu and the larger villages, offering a diverse and enjoyable dining experience.

As the trek moves into more remote areas, the focus shifts to high-calorie, nutritious food to maintain energy levels for trekking and climbing. Climbers enjoy a mix of local Nepali dishes such as dal bhat (lentils and rice), momos (dumplings), and Tibetan bread, along with pasta, rice, and vegetables.

At Manaslu Base Camp, experienced cooks prepare a meal plan that includes a mix of locally sourced and imported foods. This plan ensures climbers receive the necessary nutrition and hydration for the ascent, paying special attention to dietary restrictions and preferences to keep morale and physical well-being high throughout the expedition.

Departure Dates

Customize this trip with help from our local travel specialist that matches your interests.

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    Good to Know

    We accept major currencies such as the US Dollar, the Great Britain Pound, the Euro, the Australian Dollar, the Singapore Dollar, the Indian Rupee, the Swiss Franc, the Canadian Dollar, the Japanese Yen, the Chinese Yuan, the Saudi Arabian Riyal, the Qatari Riyal, the Thai Baht, the UAE Dirham, the Malaysian Ringgit, the South Korean Won, the Swedish Kroner, the Danish Kroner, the Hong Kong Dollar, the Kuwaiti Dinar, and the Bahrain Dinar.

    Type C, D, and M power plugs and sockets are used. The standard voltage and frequency are 230 V and 50Hz, respectively.

    Vaccinations You must be completely vaccinated against COVID-19 at least 14 days before traveling to Nepal. Vaccination documentation is required.

    On Arrival Visas are available at Nepal's entrance points for travelers. Travelers from Nigeria, Ghana, Zimbabwe, Swaziland, Cameroon, Somalia, Liberia, Ethiopia, Iraq, Palestine, Afghanistan, and Syria, on the other hand, are required to obtain a visa through their nearest Nepalese diplomatic post (embassy/consulate).

    Tourist Visa Fee

    15 Days – US$ 30
    30 Days – US$ 50
    90 Days – US$ 125

    To confirm the trek/tour package, we want a deposit of at least 20% of the total tour/trek fee. The remaining balance must be paid when you arrive in Nepal. We take Visa, Maestro, MasterCard, American Express, and other major credit cards. The total cost of a Bhutan and Tibet tour must be paid in full at the time of booking.

    We strongly advise you to purchase a SIM card for reliable internet access throughout Nepal. Nepal Telecom (owned by the government) and NCELL (owned by the private sector) are the two main SIM card providers in Nepal. It is preferable to get a SIM card at an airport, where staff will assist with activation and data plan purchases. If you have a SIM card, it will be easier for you to contact us and locate our airport agent.

    You can charge your electrical devices at hotels and lodges because there are no power outages. In the Himalayan region, however, hotel owners may levy a nominal fee.

    Climbing Clothing

    • Insulated jacket
    • Down or synthetic-filled pants
    • Climbing pants
    • Base layers (tops and bottoms)
    • Climbing gloves
    • Expedition mittens
    • Gaiters
    • Balaclava or neck gaiter
    • Sun hat or cap
    • Sunglasses with UV protection

    Footwear

    • Mountaineering boots with insulation
    • Gaiters
    • Crampons
    • Double plastic or insulated mountaineering boots
    • Approach shoes or camp shoes

    Climbing Gear

    • Helmet
    • Climbing harness
    • Carabiners (locking and non-locking)
    • Climbing slings
    • Ice axes (with leash)
    • Climbing rope
    • Ascender and descender devices
    • Prusik cords

    Backpack and Luggage

    • Expedition Backpack (70-90 liters)
    • Duffel bags for transporting gear
    • Small daypack

    Camping Gear

    • Four-season expedition tent
    • Sleeping bag (rated for extreme cold)
    • Sleeping pad or insulated mattress
    • Camp stove and fuel
    • Cooking utensils
    • Headlamp with extra batteries
    • Portable solar charger

    Climbing Accessories

    • Avalanche beacon (for safety)
    • Trekking poles or ice axe
    • Snowshoes or skis (for specific sections)
    • Snow pickets and ice screws

    Personal Items

    • Passport and permits
    • Cash and credit cards
    • Travel insurance documents
    • Personal medications and first-aid kit
    • Toiletries (toothbrush, toothpaste, etc.)

    High-Altitude Gear

    • Oxygen cylinders and masks (if required)
    • High-altitude boots and socks
    • Down suit or high-altitude clothing
    • High-altitude gloves and mittens

    Navigation and Communication

    • GPS device
    • Satellite phone or communication device
    • Maps and compass

    Miscellaneous

    • Repair kit for gear
    • Multi-tool or knife
    • Camera and spare batteries
    • Trash bags for waste disposal
    • Climbing permit and relevant documents

    Essential Information

    Best time to climb Mt Manaslu Expedition

    Spring (April to May): Spring in the Himalayas, especially in the Manaslu region, is the best time for the Mt Manaslu Expedition. It’s preferred because the weather is stable, with clear skies and little rain or snow. While it’s still cold at high altitudes, the temperatures are relatively warmer, especially at lower elevations, making it more comfortable for climbers.

    Another advantage is that there’s a lower risk of avalanches during spring than winter, making the climb safer. Additionally, spring is when the landscapes come alive with colorful wildflowers and lush vegetation, making the region even more beautiful. These factors make spring the ideal season for the Mt Manaslu Expedition.

    Autumn (September to November): Autumn is an excellent season for the Mt Manaslu Expedition because it offers stable weather with clear skies and minimal rain, just like spring. The temperatures during autumn are comfortable for climbing, whether high up in the mountains or at lower altitudes.

    What makes autumn even more appealing is that the monsoon season ends in September, and by October, the skies are clear, providing excellent visibility for climbers. Additionally, while Manaslu is less crowded than some other peaks in Nepal, autumn tends to be less busy than spring, allowing for a quieter and more peaceful climbing experience. These factors make autumn an excellent choice for the Mt Manaslu Expedition.

    The difficulty level of the Mt Manaslu Expedition

    Challenging Expedition: The Mt Manaslu Expedition presents a formidable challenge in the Himalayas and is unsuitable for inexperienced climbers. Extreme altitudes, difficult terrain, and erratic weather make it necessary to have specific equipment, advanced climbing skills, and the capacity to acclimate to low oxygen levels.

    Himalayan weather can quickly change, subjecting climbers to cold temperatures, high winds, and sudden snowstorms, even during recommended seasons. Completing this expedition demands exceptional experience, physical fitness, and mental toughness, establishing it as one of the most demanding climbs globally.

    High-Altitude Trekking: Climbing Mt. Manaslu requires thorough preparation for high-altitude trekking, as the summit reaches an imposing 8,163 meters (26,781 feet) above sea level. At these extreme altitudes, the air becomes thin. Because of its much lower oxygen content, it presents a danger for altitude-related illnesses such as acute mountain sickness (AMS), high-altitude pulmonary edema (HAPE), and high-altitude cerebral edema (HACE).

    To reduce these risks, climbers must prioritize proper acclimatization, allowing their bodies to gradually adapt to the reduced oxygen levels by ascending slowly and spending time at various altitude levels to build tolerance. Proper preparation and acclimatization are vital for ensuring a safe and successful climb of Mt Manaslu.

    Technical Climbing: The Mt Manaslu Expedition involves technical climbing challenges, including crossing glaciers, climbing steep slopes, and navigating icy and snowy areas. Climbers need to have previous experience in technical climbing and be skilled in using specialized equipment like crampons, ice axes, and ropes.

    These abilities are crucial for safely managing the problematic terrain encountered during the ascent, guaranteeing that climbers can approach the technical aspects of the expedition with self-assurance and skill.

    Physical and Mental Preparation: To prepare for the Mt Manaslu Expedition, climbers must be in excellent physical shape, as they will encounter strenuous climbs, long treks, and harsh weather conditions.

    Mental readiness is also crucial, as climbers must stay focused, make important decisions, and remain resilient when facing challenging situations. Being physically and mentally prepared is essential for a safe and successful expedition, enabling climbers to handle the physical challenges and mental toughness required to conquer this formidable peak.

    Unpredictable Weather: Weather in the Himalayas, especially in the Manaslu region, can change quickly and be hard to predict. Climbers may experience frigid temperatures, strong winds, and surprise snowstorms, even when they’re climbing during the seasons when it’s usually safer.

    The unpredictable weather adds a level of danger to the expedition. Ascenders need to be prepared to modify plans in response to weather changes, have the appropriate equipment, and maintain awareness at all times.

    Climbing Permits

    Climbers who plan to undertake the Mt Manaslu Expedition must obtain mandatory climbing permits. To secure these permits, climbers should apply through a registered trekking agency and adhere to specific regulations. The primary permits required are the Manaslu Restricted Area Permit and the Manaslu Conservation Area Permit.

    These permits are crucial in ensuring the expedition’s proper management, safeguarding the delicate environment, and enhancing safety for all climbers. Climbers should check with relevant authorities and trekking agencies for the latest permit fees and regulations before embarking on their expedition.

    Insurance

    Insurance during the Mt Manaslu Expedition is crucial. Climbers should get comprehensive mountaineering and travel insurance that covers high-altitude trekking and climbing in Nepal. This insurance needs to cover loss of personal property, medical bills, trip cancellation, and emergency medical evacuation.

    Since these expeditions can be unpredictable, having insurance ensures climbers’ safety and financial protection in case of emergencies or unexpected events during the Mt Manaslu Expedition. Climbers should carefully read and understand their insurance policies before starting the expedition.

    Route Options for Mt Manaslu Expedition

    Normal Route via Northeast Face

    Base Camp: The Mt Manaslu Expedition typically kicks off from the village of Soti Khola, taking climbers through scenic villages and landscapes en route to the Base Camp. The expedition establishes the Base Camp near the village of Samagaon at an altitude of roughly 4,800 meters (15,750 feet).

    Camps: Following acclimatization at Base Camp, the expedition sets up higher-altitude camps along the path. The expedition establishes Camp 1 at about 5,700 meters (18,700 feet), situates Camp 2 near 6,400 meters (21,000 feet), and positions Camp 3 at approximately 7,400 meters (24,300 feet). These camps act as crucial rest points, supplying climbers with essential provisions and gear.

    Summit Push: Departing from Camp 3, the expedition undertakes the final push to the summit. This phase involves tackling steep inclines, snowfields, and potentially adverse weather conditions to reach the peak at 8,163 meters (26,781 feet). The descent retraces the ascent route, with the expedition heading back to the lower camps and ultimately to Base Camp.

    South Face Route

    Base Camp: Starting from Samagaon, the Mt. Manaslu Expedition establishes the Base Camp at approximately 4,800 meters (15,750 feet) above sea level.

    Camps: The expedition sets up Camp 1 near 5,700 meters (18,700 feet), positions Camp 2 close to 6,400 meters (21,000 feet), and erects Camp 3 at approximately 7,400 meters (24,300 feet). These camps offer vital resting and acclimatization spots along the demanding south-face route.

    Summit Push: From Camp 3, the expedition encounters technical segments, including steep ascents and crevasses, on their climb toward the summit. The climactic push includes navigating the summit ridge to reach the apex. The descent mirrors the ascent, with the expedition making its way back to the lower camps and then to Base Camp.

    East Face Route

    Base Camp: Launching from the village of Arughat, the Mt Manaslu Expedition sets up Base Camp at an altitude of about 4,800 meters (15,750 feet).

    Camps: The expedition establishes Camp 1 around 5,700 meters (18,700 feet) and Camp 2 near 6,300 meters (20,670 feet) on the demanding east-face route. These camps are key for rest and acclimatization.

    Summit Push: The expedition faces tough terrain, including steep areas and intricate ice formations, on its journey to the summit. The ultimate summit push requires overcoming technical challenges to reach the summit. The expedition returns to Base Camp after passing through the lower camps along the same route.

    Local Guide and Porter Services

    Local guides and porters are vital for the Mt Manaslu Expedition. Experienced local guides offer navigation, safety, and logistical assistance during the climb, using their knowledge of the region and weather to enhance safety and decision-making for climbers.

    Porters transport gear and supplies between camps, relieving climbers from heavy loads and enabling them to concentrate on the ascent. Together, local guides and porters ensure the expedition’s success and safety, making the climbing experience more efficient and manageable for the team.


    Frequently Asked Questions

    The Mt Manaslu Expedition is a challenging high-altitude climb of Mt Manaslu, the eighth-highest peak globally in the Nepalese Himalayas. It involves a multi-week journey to reach the summit, making it a significant mountaineering achievement.

    The ideal times for the expedition are spring (April-May) and autumn (October-November). During these seasons, the weather in the region is relatively stable, with clear skies and less precipitation. These conditions provide the best opportunities for a successful ascent.

    Yes, prior climbing experience is essential. Climbers attempting Mt. Manaslu should have a strong foundation in mountaineering, including high-altitude climbing.

    Technical skills in ice and rock climbing are crucial. Before suggesting this expedition, they practiced by scaling other 6,000-meter summits.

    Climbers must obtain two main permits: the Manaslu Restricted Area Permit and the Manaslu Conservation Area Permit.

    These permits ensure that the expedition follows regulations, contributes to conservation efforts, and maintains safety standards. Additionally, climbers need to be part of a recognized expedition group.

    Yes, rigorous physical training is essential. Climbers should focus on cardiovascular fitness, strength, and endurance. Technical climbing skills, as well as high-altitude experience, are prerequisites for a safe ascent. Adequate training prepares climbers for the physical and mental challenges of the expedition.

    Hiring local guides and porters is highly recommended. Experienced local guides are familiar with the terrain, weather patterns, and potential hazards, enhancing climbers’ safety and decision-making. Porters play a vital role in transporting gear and supplies between camps, reducing the physical load on climbers.

    Yes, altitude-related illnesses such as acute mountain sickness (AMS), high-altitude pulmonary edema (HAPE), and high-altitude cerebral edema (HACE) are potential risks. Proper acclimatization, medical preparations, and awareness of symptoms are essential to mitigate these risks.

    Preparation for the Mt Manaslu Expedition is multifaceted. Climbers should undergo physical training, including cardiovascular, strength, and endurance exercises.

    Acquiring technical climbing skills and gaining experience in high-altitude environments are essential. It is also very important to be mentally prepared, especially having the capacity to make important judgments in difficult situations.

    In adverse weather conditions, climbers may need to exercise patience and wait for clear weather windows to make summit attempts. Expedition teams closely monitor weather forecasts and collaborate with experienced meteorologists to maximize safety and reduce weather-related risks.

    Yes, comprehensive insurance covering high-altitude climbing and medical evacuation is not just necessary but essential. It provides financial protection in emergencies and ensures climbers access to necessary medical care and evacuation services.

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    The best experience we had with Peregrine was the whole tour of the Annapurna Base Camp Trek was tailor-made for our requirements; all our requests were reviewed, discussed, and accepted and, in some instances, with a better recommendation.

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